How long to oxygenate

How Long to Oxygenate wort? Rickcobba Member. Hi All, Can anyone help me calculate how long i need to Oxygenate my wort and at what psi? Using an oxygen cylinder and 5mm ID line, and wanting to achieve approx 15ppm. Are there specific formulas to use to get exact results? Cervantes Well-Known Member. It doesn't take long.

I generally oxygenate through a stone for about 30 seconds to a minute. Yob Hop to it. Why 15ppm? Isn't 12 the magic number you don't want to go over? I believe 15 would be the max for high gravity wort..

I use airpump. Since Jamil, Ashton and other experts say it is impossible to overoxygenate with the pum, I usually leave it overnight after pitching the yeast Pleased with results -- largers kick in after about hrs I use starters and ensure my pitch rates are what I want them to be.

Mattwa Well-Known Member. This may be of some interest. A matter of opinion and experiement I guess. Black n Tan Well-Known Member. For starters I don't think it is possible to achieve an oxygen concentration of 15ppm in beer wort. At 20C the maximum you can achieve is 9. This saturation limit holds regardless of whether you use air or pure oxygen to oxygenate your wort, although it may be difficult to reach saturation using just air. I think it is almost impossible to over oxygenate wort, most of the oxygen will simply not be absorbed.

There is also another factor at play and that is the higher the SG the less soluble oxygen will be in the wort. The extra oxygen may not solubilise in the wort, but will be present in the headspace and replenish oxygen levels in the wort over the first few hours as the oxygen is consumed. He had no intention of olive oil being used to replace aeration. It was a technique for yeast storage, not propagation. And even then it didn't work well.

In his words, the study was 'conducted to evaluate [ The author later states: 'This project set out to investigate the effects of using olive oil addition to storage yeast vs. On this scale we can easily afford to pitch five times the yeast, to eliminate the need for yeast growth. On a large scale, that becomes cost-prohibitive. Even to achieve standard pitching rates requires costly propagation equipment or lab-grown pitchable slurries. These costs are therefore defrayed by re-pitching the yeast for multiple generations, and this is impossible to do for the typical generations without allowing yeast growth during each generation, to generate fresh yeast.

Oxygen or some suitable replacement is what allows for yeast growth and multiple generations of re-pitching. If every batch were pitched with the full terminal cell count you would essentially have the same yeast cells i. Also, some important flavor attributes mainly esters are specifically related to yeast growth and pitching enough to preclude growth may reduce their levels to undesirable quantities.

But, it's still a fine idea for the small scale. Show 1 more comment. GrainMother GrainMother 2 2 silver badges 9 9 bronze badges. I find the use of olive oil questionable. Second I'm not sure it can synthesize sterols from fatty acids alone. Third the results in the paper by Hull shows sign of inadequate oxygenation more esters.

Fourth tests using no areation in the control batch shows no percievable differences. In addition providing the full amount of yeast is probably not feasible. Recommended pitching rates is more than an order of magnitude less than the full amount. With reasonable pitching rate the yeast need to grow anyway. To be clear the proposed method is to use air to aerate and use that for a longer time instead of pure oxygen. Not to continue aeration indefinitely and after the growth phase has completed.

What's over elaborate? That's for each brewer to decide. But we're talking having a pump pumping air into the wort or having a O2-tube and flow regulator pushing O2 into the wort - not that huge difference to objectively say which is more elaborate.

I think skyking should re-read the paper. Essentially olive oil and aeration not the lack of it gave very similar results within style parameters of the test brew. The test brew was even released to the public as "standard product" without adverse comment.. So using olive oil seems to be a viable if somewhat odd method.

It is also quite a viable idea to pitch yeast at a much higher rate than recommended. One can add it to or grow it in the brew with little real difference in outcome. Regardless if your wort is in either a carboy or bucket, if you need to add cold water to make up the volume of wort to the desired level, splashing or spraying the cold water into the wort can also increase the amount of oxygen that will go into solution.

Agitation is the simplest and least expensive method for aerating wort, but involves a little more time and elbow grease than splashing or injection. Another opportunity to add oxygen to your batch of homebrew is when the chilled wort is being transferred from the kettle to the fermenter. If the transfer is taking place through some type of hose or tubing, attaching a sanitized bent pen clip or other device such as a Fermentap Siphon Spray to the end of the tubing will cause the wort to spray and splash as it enters the fermenter.

If you have two sanitized vessels, you can transfer the wort between the two at least five or six times with as much splashing as practical. Pouring the wort through a sanitized wire mesh strainer can also increase splashing during the wort transfer process. As with agitation, splashing should result in at least a couple inches of foam on the wort surface.

Be sure to brace the container receiving the wort so it cannot move and cause spilled wort. Also, be certain that containers and strainers are thoroughly sanitized before use. Splashing is a relatively simple and inexpensive approach to oxygenation, but if accomplished by pouring wort between vessels it may lend itself to contamination from airborne microbes.

Perhaps the most effective approach to oxygenate wort is to directly inject air or pure oxygen into the wort. This can be done after the wort has been chilled in the kettle and conveyed to the fermenter, or during the delivery of wort from a wort chiller to a fermenter.

While this technique is very effective, it usually involves more equipment and expense than both the agitation and splashing methods previously described. The most common method of oxygen injection used by homebrewers is to infuse air or oxygen into the wort after it has been chilled and transferred to the primary fermenter. This technique uses either pressurized air or oxygen and some type of diffuser to bubble the gas into the wort to get oxygen into solution.

Many homebrew suppliers now carry air pumps, filters and diffusers for this method of wort oxygenation. Simply running air from the end of a section of tubing into the wort is not a very efficient means of gas transfer as the bubbles will be few in number and large in size.

To get the most efficient transfer of oxygen into solution, some sort of diffusing apparatus is necessary at the end of the tube immersed in the wort. Diffusers range from very inexpensive aquarium-type air diffusion stones to sintered stainless steel diffusers. Aquarium stones are inexpensive, but less efficient than a 0. The small 0. A stainless steel diffuser can be sanitized by boiling it in water for 15 minutes prior to use. Artificial stones designed for use in aquariums can be sanitized by a quick soak in vodka, but after a few uses become fragile and tend to disintegrate quite easily as has been my personal experience.

When using pure oxygen instead of air to oxygenate wort, filtration is not necessary as it is unlikely for microorganisms to survive in an atmosphere as reactive as pure oxygen.

Otherwise, the technique for using oxygen is the same as that used for air, except for the amount of time the gas is bubbled through the wort. There are also ready-made apparatus for diffusing oxygen into a vessel of wort that include a cylinder of oxygen, gas regulator, tubing and a stainless steel diffuser. Commercial or industrial grade oxygen is all that is necessary for use in wort oxygenation.

Aviation or medical grade oxygen is more expensive, difficult to obtain and is not necessary for the purposes of brewing. A word of caution when using pure oxygen: there are few things as flammable as pure gaseous oxygen, so be sure there are no sparks or flames in the vicinity of where the gas will be used.

A more sophisticated method of oxygenating wort is to inject air or pure oxygen into the wort as it passes from the kettle or chiller into the fermentation vessel. This is the approach commercial breweries commonly use to properly oxygenate their wort.